HAVE YOU SPEKTRUM-ED ?

The spectrum board for the Mini-Z has been out for a couple of months for now and we are starting to see it gain popularity. I have been asked so many times. Is spektrum better than the ASF?

Is it faster? Is it more responsive? 

In my honest opinion, I wouldn't say which is better but I can share the advantages.

1. Braking - the spectrum works on a different channel for brakes and reverse where else the ASF doesn't. You are able to set a much milder braking force and not sacrifice your reverse speed.

2. Power - oh yes, the spektrum board is indeed punchy because the original board comes factory fitted with double layers of the PN FETS. And these fets have one of the lowest resistances and yet able to handle 8 AMPS of power draw. The stock fets on the ASF doesn't give you that much of power. But of cos you can swap out the stock fets on the ASF boards with some PN FETS to give you more power

3. Ports - the additional ports on the board powers the transponders leaving the I.C.S port free. No more plugging and unplugging your transponder just to do I.C.S programming.

4. Software - the PN software for ICS programming is a lot simpler than the Kyosho ones. And I bet you. You will definitely be playing with the software a lot more. The ASF version is so complicated and it seems like I need to carry a bible just to do some settings. And that is one of the main reason ASF I.C.S software is never popular. At times software settings on the car is a lot faster than hardware settings during races.

5. On Board Processor - the spectrum board has 2 ICs on board for data processing. One for the steering and the other for speed. Where else ASF uses 1 IC to do both the processing. I feel individual processing is definitely better than shared processing. 

Lastly I feel that the  Prefect Combo = Spektrum + PN ICS Blue tooth adaptor + Android phone. Thats all you need for most of the races. Simple, Lightweight and the phone is always in the pocket. 

Plenty of setting options.

You decide :) 

"Race Shell"

Well it seems that I have gone last and refuse to type. Enjoy guys:)

RACE SHELLS

I have covered parts for the car, different stages you can consider. I have also covered setting tips and also tire choices.

Well I would like to share some information on "race shells". You must be wondering. Kyosho makes fantastic nice shells. Why are these guys running on shells that looks UGLY.

We run shells that look ugly and call them "race shells" because

1. You can choose your own colour scheme and I bet you this is important in a race because that sets you apart from the rest of the racers. People see and they recognise your shell not you.You won't want to run a shell that's off shelf because there might many others running the same shell as you.

2. "Race Shells" are typically a lot lighter than the stock ones as we do not apply a heavy coat of paint on it for one. We change out the windows to a lexan window so that it's a lot lighter. We also make openings on the shell for better down force.

3. Shell height can also be custom as you glue on the side clips. Most of our race cars are typically set up to be really low and therefore the stock shells tends to scrap the track.

There are also a couple of shells that is highly recommended for race due to the design, the handing or the rigidity.

I would highly recommended using either the Audi R8, Ferrari 458 or the Ferrari 599. I personally tested all those shells and I find them highly competitive.


In the next article I will be showing you step by step on how to prepare a race shell.

INDONESIA OPEN 2014

Its time again of the year for one of the biggest mini-z race in S.E.A. Indonesia Open 2014.

This year the race will be held in a shopping mall in Surabaya. I am very excited about this upcoming race as PN team drivers will be there for the race as well as Team drivers from Atomic RC.

More info on the race can be found here:

https://www.facebook.com/events/394594130680150/

Race dates as follows: Sept 18 - 19 Open Practise / Sept 20 - 21 Qualifying + Mains

The Singapore team heading up for the race will be as follows :

Dave Tang
Keith Lin
Fred Chia
Mark Loo
Kar Wee
Dinesh
Jowell

Mini - Z legend Alvin Lim will not be joining the race as it clashes with the IPHONE launch on 19th Sept 2014 in Singapore.

I hope to provide some live coverage if I am able to get on the network there.

Good luck guys.

Next article will be some tips on race preparation.

Choose your rear tires like a PRO !

Back in MAY I touched on finding traction and in the post I covered mainly the front tires.

Well guys just to touch on the rear tires.

You hear us talking about degrees, parada, radial, compound and many terms and you must be thinking what the hell and what should I buy. The grooves on the tires, there is no water on the track does the groove matter?

Anyway here goes:


1. Degree

The lower the number the softer the tires therefore 5* is softer than 6* and therefore technically you should have more grip when you use a lower degree tires. However I feel that the car gets a little sluggish in the rear when the tires are too soft. If there is no need to DO NOT USE the softest tires because: IT WEARS FASTER and IT CAUSE THE CAR TO BE SLUGGISH.

On a typical well maintained RCP track the PN Racing 6* should provide you with more than sufficient rear grip.


2. Grooves

I would recommend you to try BOTH. The parada and the radial. The differences, both the tires are of the same compound and same hardness (6*) so what's the difference. Well the radial tires have the same groove throughout and therefore provide you with the same traction same feel even during cornering. I would say good tires for smooth drivers.

However if you look at the parada closely the grooves are not the same. There is 2 lines at the outer area of the tires. At this moment you must be thinking. YOU ARE CRAZY does it make a difference.

Yes it does, the outer surface of the tires because of the design is softer where else towards the middle and the insides it's the same hardness. So what?

Having a softer "outside" actually gives you better side grip while cornering and doing sudden direction change. And if ask yourself when do upset the car or when does the car lose traction? Will it lose traction on the straights? If it does your car needs to be looked at (Back to Pit). The car usually lose traction when you corner HARD or make sudden direction change to avoid collision. The parada tires does help with the softer outsides to give you that extra side bite.

Enough said, try it !

RRR06 - PN Racing Mini Z RCP Radial Rear 6 (Degree)
RR1106 - PN Racing Mini Z Parada Rear Tire 6 (Degree)

Pro Kit Stage 2 (Last Part) Explained

Alright guys,

This is the final part on the pro kit explained. In this last section we are touching on :

1. T Plates

This is found on the bottom of the chassis and the T-plate basically controls your roll. (Left and Right movement of the car)

There are a couple of different hardness available

MR3012S - Number 2
MR3001S - Number 3
MR3002S - Number 4
MR3003S - Number 5
MR3004S - Number 6

So what are all this numbers and what do they do? The bigger the numbers the stiffer the plates and therefore less roll action. Of cos if the pockets allowed you can purchase the entire whole range for testing but in our experience we normal run the Number 4 or 5.

The rest is a little too hard or too soft. But again, that depends on the track condition.



2. Rear axel height adjustment.

When you remove your diff, take a close look at the black plastic piece that holds the bearing. There is a number on it and either 1 or 2 that you are using. Do remember, use the same number on both side else you will realise that your car tweaks on one side. Both the holders provides 2 different ride heights and I would take reference from the fronts and the tires to match the rear. The concept here is very simple, this adjustment basically sets the rear ride height to match the front so that you will have even ride height.

That's all for now guys. Pro Kit explained. No more guessing work. Hit the tracks.

Pro Kit Stage 2 (Part 1) Explained

Hi Pro Kit Owners,

I hope you guys have fun tweaking the front section of the car and I hope by now you have found a sweet spot or a nice setting for the fronts.

Today I am going to touch on part 1 of Stage 2 upgrade. Stage 2 upgrade consist of a couple of key components and therefore I feel that there is a need to break the explanation to 2 parts.

In part 1, I am going to touch on the centre shock as well as the DPS.


1 & 2. Center Shock

Well there are a couple of centre shocks available in the market and the most common ones that you see would be the "yellow" kyosho shock. I personally don't like that option part as the damping rely on the oil and the springs. When I ran that shock a couple of years back there was quite abit of guessing work. Springs you use on the shock affects the response. The oil you use affects it as well.
When the oil level drops it changes again. And worst the spring and the oil both contributes to bounce and the oil alone contributes to the re bounce. It's like rock science.

I strongly recommend the PN Racing piece. Simple, maintenance free and very simple to understand.

Springs in the front (1) determines your re bounce and the Springs in the rear (2) determines your bounce. Just a little tip, load the springs with slight compression. Never compress the springs too much. I use green for the front and white for the rear.



3. Damper system

This part prevents the car from hopping too much and at the same time contributes to the on throttle response and off throttle response. By having a harder spring at the bottom gives you more on throttle steering where else a softer spring gives you more off throttle steering. Make sure to take close look at the damper system and try to make sure that both the top and bottom springs are equal.

I am a off throttle person and therefore, I prefer Blue (hard) springs on the top and Green (Soft) springs and the bottom.

That's all for today's tech tips.

See you soon. Happy racing.......

Pro Kit Installation VIDEO

Good Morning Pro Kit Owners,

It has been photos and many text, this time round the article is short. Let the video do the talking :)

Let's see how the winning car is built from scratch.

Enjoy the process !

For mobile phone users direct youtube link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zFttgDpfkA&feature=youtu.be

Pro Kit Front End EXPLAINED

Hi Pro Kit Owners,

Sorry this article is a little late as I was busy with the PNWC Regional 2014 held recently at Mini-Z SG ( Singapore premium Indoor Racing Circuit).

Alright let's get down to it. For the front section of the pro kit basically there are 3 key components I want to touch on.

1. Castor Adjustments
0.2mm Shims are used here and there are basically 3 different options for this. Placing both the shims in the front gives you 0 degree caster, placing one shim in the front and one in the rear gives you 0.9 degree caster and finally 2 shims at the rear gives you 1.8 degree caster.

Caster basically provides you with more on power steering, you will be able to turn more aggressively and sharper with more caster. I personally run 0.9 degree as I find 1.8 degree a little to aggressive for me.


2. Spring Rates
In Stage 1 upgrade most of you would have bought MR3010 Front Suspension Spring Sets. The different sets of springs offer you different hardness. Ratings as follows:
Red = 70g/mm
Green = 104g/mm
Purple = 139g/mm
White = 189g/mm
Yellow = 270g/mm
Some of the tips online provides information on springs and most of the time they would say soft springs gives you more steering. Probably I would say this apply for the bigger scale. I use different spring hardness for response as well as roll control. The harder the springs the more responsive the front gets and lesser the roll. Purple and White springs are generally used on the local track.


3. Static Camber and Ride Hide
700409 Color Shims are provided with every pro kit installed. The blue ones are 0.5mm and the orange ones 0.2mm.
Placing these shims below the arms gives you static camber. The MR03s gets camber gain whenever you corner and that's why you don't really need to worry about not having camber while cornering.

I would say static camber is very important as it determines if the camber gain is sufficient while you corner and it prevents the tires from conning.
Recommendation is to use all the  8 pcs of the shims.
However it is very important where the shims are placed. Placing the shims above the knuckle gives you static camber but does not change the ride height, while placing the shims below the knuckles gives you the same effect while lowering the car's ride height.

That's all for now. Stay tuned for Center Shock and DPS Explained next week.

Mini-Z Noobs

We all start somewhere, many people wants to get into a hobby and have tons of questions. They start googling "mini - z" and gather information that's top hit in the list. There are just tons of information and so many different school of thoughts, best of all there are so many brand manufacturer. There is Atomic, 3Racing, KM Racing, X-Power RC, R246, Kyosho, TRP, Reflex Racing and there could be more.

Most people alway start by buying parts that's cheap and easily available on Ebay or forums. Some would buy parts that's on big discount on web stores.

Ask yourself some questions, what is it you looking for?
When you start this hobby what do you have in mind?
Are you just trying to swap out the plastic parts with some aluminium parts?
Will you be racing? Is performance important? Are replacement parts necessary?
What about resale value? What about precision?

To keep things simple, I have been down this route. I started as a noob. I bought hell a lot of parts and you won't even imagine how many brands and how much money I have spent. End of this 4 years journey I concluded - PN RACING Parts is the only way to go. Why?

1. The brand says it (High Performance Option Parts)
2. Parts are designed by pro racers, people that actually race and win
3. RnD, prototype testing are carried out months before the parts are available for sale
4. 100% Mini-Z focus, PN makes only Mini-Z parts
5. Parts are readily available and comes in 3 different colours, Orange, Blue and Silver (Everyone has a favourite colour) :) - I love the silver though
6. PN makes the complete option parts for the entire Mini-Z from the front ends to the suspensions to the rear, to the motor, to basically every damm thing.
7. Individual replacement parts are also available and should you break or lose some of the parts you wouldn't need to buy the entire whole assembly. You can buy just the lose parts.
8. Last but not least products are high quality, precise and race proven

Stop wasting your money. Stop wasting your time. Let's Start Racing.

Race Tips 101 : Finding Traction

Everyone wants to have a "dialled in car" for the race and a "dialled in car" means a car that you feel comfortable driving and is PUSHable. What are we looking for exactly?

In my early days of racing, whenever I reach a new track I always try to get the car to perform at it's best. The pit table will be full of stuff, you name it you have it. Front springs, DPS springs, T-plates, tools ......... the list goes on and on. I see a lot people going through setups during practise day. They start wenching their car by changing springs, ride height, body shell, almost anything you can think of just to get the car to perform at it's best. IF it is a need to go through so much things then why not just build a new car at the race? LOL

There is absolutely nothing wrong with your car, it's just the RIGHT TRACTION you are looking for.

Finding the right traction is always the key to winning races, so when talk about traction it is nothing but tires. So you might say I have the right tire combi everyone is using it and their car is performing good but mine is not.

Front Tires

Do you know that same pair tires feels totally different when you glue them, tape them and best of all tape them using different types of tape.

Do you also know that the same tires also feel different when it is of different thickness?

The front tires gives you steering and it is also mainly the cause for traction rolling. Here is a simple chart to help you see the picture better

Tire Status                 Traction Roll Level        Pushable Level        Cornering Speed

Fresh                                     10                                 1                              10
Trued to 23mm                       6                                  5                               7
Trued to 22.5mm                    4                                  7                               6
23mm Glued                           6.5                               4.5                            8          
23mm Taped                           6                                  5.5                            7.5
22.5mm Glued                        4.5                               6.5                            6.5
22.5mm Taped                        4                                  7.5                            6.5

For the rear tires, try to use a brand new set and of course you still have the option of glue or tape.

As you can see, tires alone affect the car quite a fair bit. Your choice, wench and potentially ruin your car or work on your tires.

Happy racing !

Race Batts

Fuels for your race machines. The mini-z runs off 4 x AAA batteries for those that doesn't know.
There are a lot of battery manufactures out there and over the years I have went through a couple myself.

Just so that you know, here are the list of batteries I went through myself and some simple rating for them. The higher the numbers the better they are.

1.   Orion 1100RT -  Run time - 8 , Punch level - 5, Consistence - 7
2.   Orion 990HV -   Run time - 7 , Punch level - 7, Consistence - 6
3.   Orion 750SHO - Run time - 6 , Punch level - 8, Consistence - 5
4.   TRP RP1000 -    Run time - 8 , Punch level - 5, Consistence - 7
5.   TRP RP900 -      Run time - 7 , Punch level - 6, Consistence - 7
6.   TRP RP747 -      Run time - 6 , Punch level - 8, Consistence - 7
8.   Atomic VP800 - Run time - 6 , Punch level - 6, Consistence - 6
9.   R1Wurks 750 -   Run time - 7 , Punch level - 8, Consistence - 7
10. R1Wurks 990 -   Run time - 8 , Punch level - 7, Consistence - 9

End of the battery journey ($$$) I am pretty much stuck with the R1Wurks 990s. These cells provide consistence throughout 8 - 10 minutes of racing. For the rest somewhat your will feel a drop of power and the car just feels so different from the start till the end. I really need to adapt to like multiple changes to the power band of car.

The R1s are not too costly and they are readily available. Quality of the cells are does not vary much  from different batches and they are work horses. Series charging, Step Charging, High Amp Charging (1.5AMPS). The cells do take a lot of beatings. Of course the hobby shops won't want these on their shelf for one simple reason, how the heck do I make money when the cells are so durable. I would want to sell some shitty stuff that doesn't last so that I get repeated sales.

Anyway, I usually keep 24 sets of batteries for my races. 12 sets for 2 classes and the other 12 for practice before the race. Race batts are only used for races and please do not charged twice in a row.

Recommended charges for charging are individual cells ones, Both Maha and SkyRC makes them. These two are pretty good. However I do have a series charging tray and a series charger with me for race day charging . These pro chargers i.e LRP, Muchmore , Orions do really pack more punch into the cells due to their own charging algorithm. But bear in mind series charging is good for performance but they do wear your cells down pretty quickly.

Some simple tips for battery charging before races.

- Discharge your batteries the night before the race using a individual cell charger or a PN Racing Discharger.
- Charge up your cells before the race using a series charging charger  at 1AMP and right before your heats pump up to 1.2AMP for slightly more punch.

That's all for now. HAPPY RACING ....................

Stage 1 Upgrade

I am thinking to start this hobby / I have bought the a chassis set. The stock chassis looks plasticky can it run? I need to get some parts for it and I bet these are the common questions that you think of...

- What are the basic parts I should get and how much does it cost? I don't want to burn a hole in my pocket
- What does this basic parts do? Is it a need?
-  What happens next after I buy the basic parts?
- There are so many advise given by others who should I follow?

Well, I came through this process and here is what I would recommend. For a basic Stage 1 upgrade you should be looking at 3 items:

1. Ball Bearings - the stock kit comes with plastic bushing. Some bushing are pretty tight causing the wheels not to spin freely. Some bushing are so loose that the wheels wobble. The bearing upgrade solves all of the above. It allows your wheels to rotate freely thus giving you better battery life and a smoother ride.

2. A set of front springs - the "black" stock springs that comes with the car is hard as stone. Sometimes I wonder even if it  gives you any suspension. Think of it, a car without suspension. Will it work? I don't think so. A set of front springs gives you tuning option to harden or soften the fronts. Well IT GIVES YOUR CAR FRONT SUSPENSION.

3. A set of T-Plates - On the opposite the "STOCK" T Plate provided in the kit is made of plastic and it is so damm soft. A car with a hard  front suspension  plus a super soft rear suspension. A prefect combi for a shitty ride.  A set of  soft. medium and hard T-Plates  gives you tuning option for the rear. Providing you with REAR SUSPENSION.

So whats the damage?

600129 PN Racing Mini-Z 2WD Shield Hub Dry Ball Bearing Set (7PCS) - $9.95 USD

MR3010 PN Racing Mini- Z MR03 Front Suspension Spring Set (5 Pairs) - $6.99 USD

MR3001S MR3002S MR3003S PN Racing Mini- Z MR03 MM Silver Carbon T-plate #3, #4, #5 -$16.98 USD

A total of $33.92 USD

Ask your local hobby shop for a bundle price. I am sure they will be pleased to give you a discount.

Stage 2 Upgrade

I have done my stage 1 upgrade and I have been racing for a while now. What comes to your mind next? LOL

"I WANT TO GO FASTER." Yeah and most of the time everyone goes through the same process. So time to spend some money. Here is my guide to Stage 2 Upgrade and it will cost you some money.

1. PN50T Bushing Motor - I would strongly recommend this motor as the first upgrade as the stock motor motor from the Kit is somewhat about 80T so moving from a 80T to a 50T is a good increase in speed. The upgrade motor from Kyosho is the X-speed and it is running somewhere around 48T but I feel the motor is slightly over priced and it does not give sufficient torque.

2. Damper System + Centre Shock - With a increase in speed the stock parts on the chassis can no longer provide you with sufficient damping. The DPS + Dual Centre Shock will help you to eliminate this problem providing good damping and shock absorption.

3. 98MM LCG Motor Pod - Well the name said it. LCG. For the benefit of the Noobs, Low centre Gravity. The motor pod provides not only LOWER Centre Gravity for additional stability, it's open concept full aluminium design is light weight, helps to dissipates heat and provides micro fine tuning for superb gear mashing. The stock plastic motor pod holds the motor in a tilted manner, uses plastic spacer for gear spacing and fantastic "keep warm design". Very good chance your upgraded overheats in there.

4. 64 Pitch Ball Differential - A lot of times, people ask do I really need a ball diff? Won't the stock diff do its job. Then the question is do you know what was provided and what does the differential do? What was provided is a 48 Pitch Gear Differential. The stock gear diff works in a way that the drive is lost to the spinning wheel until the car slows and traction is regained. Where else a ball diff still allows drive to both wheel and it can keeps the power going to the wheel with grip.
Further more 48 pitch is a little dated. Till you tried the 64 Pitch, sweet, smoothness and much more ratio to play with. I drive the 126 Pitch myself. :)


Enough said, whats's the damage?

113250 PN Racing Mini- Z PNWC Bushing Motor 50T - $9.99 USD
MR2060 PN Racing Mini- Z Multi Length Disk Damper Set - $19.88 USD
MR2161 PN Racing Mini-Z Dual Spring Centre Shock Set - $11.88 USD
MR2289 PN Racing Mini-Z 98-108MM LCG Motor Mount - $39.88 USD
MR2049 PN Racing V2 Light Weight 64P Ceramic Ball Diff Set - $36.88 USD

Total $118.51 USD

Time Needed - Approximate 30mins

Stage 3 Upgrade

All good things have to come an end. We are here for the FINAL stage upgrade. Yes you heard it correctly FINAL stage.

In this stage we are looking at having the fronts souped up simply because we want a complete modded car. Yes and No, well here is my recommendation YOU DECIDE !

1. Aluminium Tower Bar - This part replaces the stock plastic parts that holds the arms. You will need to cut off the original plastic parts to fit this. Aluminium is light weight yet providing strength and durability to the JOINT that holds your front suspension arms . Precision made to minimise any slops in between the arm joints. Screw holds that hold the arms are metal therefore you will not ever have to worry about over tightening and stripping the plastics.

2. Aluminium Caster Upper Arms - Replaces the original plastic arms. Take a close look at the original plastic arms, compress the suspension a little and look closely. Not only the springs move, the arms flexes as well. So the next time someone tells you to use a YELLOW spring you may have to discount that a little as your stock arms contributes to additional "SOFTNESS". The Aluminium ones recommended provides consistence, durability as well as castor functions. Placing the provide shims in various position gives you 0.9/1.8 castor. Trust me you will need castor.

3. Aluminium Low Down Knuckles - These knuckles is a MUST HAVE. lowers your front ride. The delrin insert provides superb smooth sliding movement and theses knuckles are so durable they sure take a lot of beating. The stock knuckles breaks at the tie rod joints with just a slide impact, you won't want this to happen during a race.  Sliding movement is definitely not smooth and therefore it does effect the suspension. And worst, the ride height these stock knuckles provides makes the car look like a LORRY.

4. Pro Front Lower Arm Set - This kit includes a couple of very nice feature and functionality. Firstly lets look at the stock plastic piece. Flexes a lot, at times the left ride height and the right ride height is not even balance. Try switching a tie rod, be prepared for a 15 mins job taking everything apart just to change a tie rod. Lastly the king pins POPs out at time during heavy races. Well this kit solves all the above problems. Aluminium bottom fronts bolts to the main chassis ensuring you a prefect left and right ride height. Bundled with  separated carbon piece allows you to remove and change your tie rods on the fly. Specially tailored king pins are provided, held in place by metal c-clips. There is no way the king pins are popping in any harsh racing environments. And of best of all, engineered in way that allows you to do a reverse king pin install that provides 30-40% more smoothness to your front suspension. Worth it? YES every single bucks.

5. Aluminium Front Spring Holder - What is this? A blink part? Nope. The stock plastic spring holder is not even a spring holder. I call it a spring stand not a holder. The nipples on the plastic piece is so small it hardly does it job keeping the springs in the correct position. This aluminium piece as "HUGE" nipples. Yes HUGE, it keeps the the spring in place and there isn't a single time the springs pop out in races. You can even purchase shims to be inserted for micro tension tuning.

6. Aluminium Shims - Small little colourful pieces. Precision made to exact thickness. Come in 2 various thickness to allow fine tuning of front ride height. Do yourself a favour throw those stock plastic ones away. I never believe plastic moulding for such small pieces can be consistent. Some pieces are thicker while some have excessive plastic left causing binding if placed above the knuckles .

Enough said, this last stage upgrade seems to be lengthy. So is this looks or performance based?  You tell me.

Cost?

MR3051 PN Racing Aluminium Tower Bar Wide - $13.88 USD
MR3033 PN Racing Mini- Z Aluminium Caster Upper Arm - $28.88 USD
MR3032 PN Racing Mini- Z Aluminium Low Down Knuckle - $18.88 USD
MR3052 PN Racing MR03 Pro Front Lower Arm Set - $26.88 USD
MR3011W PN Racing Mini- Z Front Spring Holder - $7.99 USD
700409 PN Racing Mini- Z Color Shim For King Pin - $4.68 USD

Total $101.19 USD

Time needed - Approximate 20mins

PN Racing Pro Kit V1

After going through all 3 stages, here we are the final product. A PN PRO KIT.

We as racers alway want the best chassis, the best parts and the best setup for our ride. And I have spent years looking for one myself. At a scale of 1/27 small little mismatch parts makes the entire car haywire.

You must be thinking? Why are all the parts PN Racing?

There are many manufactures that makes parts but I would say PN Racing makes one of the best parts for the mini z. Why do I say that?

- Precision for the parts are there with very little tolerance (play)
- R&D involved, all the parts goes through months of design, planning and testing before they are available on the market.
- Replacement parts for each individual components are available for sale. Should you break or damage any of the parts you can always just purchase spares instead of buying the entire set.

All parts come in 3 fabulous colours - Orange, Silver and Blue.